A light, airy, effervescent, blog of grave consequence. (NOT!) Dedicated to those of us who must respond to negative stimuli by Chernobyling (entombing in concrete) our innermost thoughts.

Location: Slaughter, Louisiana, United States

A semi-gruntled corporate reliability engineer trying to make ends meet while keeping my wife happy, and myself out of the asylum.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

New Water Heater Installation Complete

Got the electrical outlet mounted first thing this morning, then it was time to hit the point of (limited) return. I made a list of parts and headed back to the 'Po.

When I arrived home, I tackled the gas line first. 3/4" black iron pipe. That went very smoothly and with a little help from Rectorseal and a new shutoff valve, - No leaks.

Then I started the water lines. I replaced the shutoff valve on the heater inlet because the original was seized. (And I'm not a big fan of globe valves anyway.) Had one leak at a solder joint when I pressure tested it, but a little more heat and solder and all was good on the inlet side.

I had planned to reuse the connection for the outlet, but after building the "T" required for the Pressure Relief Valve and getting the new line all soldered in place, that connector for the heater outlet was bad, so back to the 'Po I went. One new flexible connector and a spool of 18-2 thermostat wire so I can mount the remote control downstairs later and I was in business.

Finally, no leaks. I purged the hot water system and plugged the heater in. Jailbroke the heater remote so I could set the temp to 140 and turned on the faucet. Perfect operation first time out.

Very little lag if any compared to the old tank heater. Hardly any noise when it's operating either.

It ain't pretty, but it works like a charm:



Blogger Brian Gallimore said...

Lots of questions for you:

Do you like ball valves more than globe valves? Why?

What is the Rectorseal? I'm looking at their website, they make all kinds of stuff.

Why do you like 140*? (what was the max allowed?)

The heater works with standard gas lines, don't have to upsize anything?

How much was the heater, did you research brands, models, etc?

You are my hero.

Only 3 trip to HD, nice work!

8:53 AM  
Blogger 2Evil4U said...

Full flow versus lots of twists and turns.

Rectorseal makes a bunch of stuff, the sealant i like best is T+2, it is good for Propane, Ng, and potable water so I wal able to use it on all threaded connections.

Mona likes ludicrously hot water, although after showering last night, I think we'll be able to get by at 130 going forward.

My house is 350' from the meter and the gas is all run in 3/4 black iron. It had been reduced to 1/2 for the old heater so I had to replace a couple fittings and add a few small sections to get to within the max 36" flex hose required but it seems to work fine.

Heater was $1300 from Home Depot. Special order. Chimney kit was $260. Misc parts & stuff was about $180. I got a check for $150 from LA and can take a credit on my 2010 income tax of 30% of the total cost.

I did quite a bit of research as I was a bit skeptical of the potential lag time for these things. I went with a model that is one size larger than would normally be recommended for my house and it seems to work very well as of early testing.

(200,000 BTU is recommended for a 3+ bath house where we have only 2.5)

9:28 AM  

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